CO2 Related - Common Q and A
No. The plants only use Co2 when in the process of photosynthesis (when the lights are turned on).
When this occurs, check the O-ring where the regulator attaches to the bottle, you may need a new one.
I use a CO2 generator & I have the equipment off at night but, the CO2 level keeps building up at night, why?
There is a pilot light on the Co2 generators that uses natural gas or propane, this is the most likely cause. Check your timer to ensure it is set correctly.
Clones need a Co2 range of 300-400 PPM.
Moms only need a CO2 level of around 300-400 PPM
A digital Co2 controller ensures the best reading and results. If you decide to go the Co2 route, it is worth spending the extra money and getting a reliable controller.
Co2 drops to the floor so mixing it with the air is key. One of the best ways to ensure the Co2 is being mixed properly is by attaching the Co2 feed lines to your oscillating fan, Air Handler or Inline fan used for "Scrubbing" the room.
The natural Co2 level outside is 300-400 PPM.
If you are in the beginning growth stage a Co2 level between 300-400 PPM is perfect. If you are in the advanced growth stage up to 800 PPM is a good range. If you are in the flowering stage a range of 900-1200 PPM is ideal. When your PPM increases above 15000, your plants become starved of oxygen.
Container Gardening or Net Cup Questions - Common Q & A
One method is to use plastic sheet covers. This is an easy solution if you are having an algae problem. The coco coir rolls work great in trays. The coir mats are reusable if you clean them. If you are worried about the algae right now, relax, it does not usually create a huge problem. If you do want to clean it use a tablespoon of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of water. Fill a spray bottle and spray the tray (its fine if the plants are in it).
I hand water my plants and I have to water too often. What can I do so I do not have to water as often?
Coco coir is a heavy water retaining media. If you use guano top dressing it will create a vapor barrier that will slow the top of the soil from drying out in the pot. You can also use vermiculite and peat moss for the same effect.
Not really. One method of curing this is to use plastic sheet covers; this is an easy solution if you are having an algae problem. The coco coir rolls work great in trays. The coir mats are reusable if you clean them. If you are worried about the algae right now just relax, it does not usually create a huge problem; but if you want to clean it immediately, use a tablespoon of 35% hydrogen peroxide in a gallon of water. Fill a spray bottle with the solution and spray the tray (it's fine if the plants are in it).
Soap and water is fine. Some people use prefer to use water that has pH down mixed in it. Warm water will dissolve solids more easily.
It changes with system type. NFT and DWC systems are exceptions to the rule since their roots extend and survive beyond the root ball (within the system).
Here is the rule. For every 1 foot you expect your plant to be when it is finished growing, you will need about 1 gallon of media. Rockwool needs a bit less area, because the density of the media allows more root growth in the same size container. Most people start out with a smaller container and transplant up one or two sizes during the growth cycle although it’s best to keep your plant in the same container the whole way through if possible. Less transplanting equals less shock and trauma, and less to go wrong. Also, if the plant is in a large container to begin with, it will actually grow faster because the roots will not bind up as quickly.
As long as your root ball fits within the cup you are good. The great aspect of using net cups is that they allow the roots to grow outside of the cup which is great for aeration. If you are using net cups for flowering and your plant is going to end up taller than 24”, I’d use a 6” cup or larger.
Definition and Explanation of Light Lumen, Lux, Candle Foot Description
In defining how bright something is, we have two things to consider.
1. How bright it is at the source- where the light is originating
2. How much light is falling on an object a particular distance away from the light.
Why Candle Foot? Well since we are in the USA, its more patriotic to use the Candle Foot vs. the Lumen (they are both essentially the same thing).
Here is a good example. Get a cake candle. Grab a ruler or tape measure. Stick the candle on one end of the ruler. Light the candle. Turn the lights out (so that the room is dark). One foot-candle of light is the amount of light that candle generates one foot away.
That's a useful unit of measurement. Why? Say you have a light bulb. You are told it produces 200 foot candles of light. That means at one foot from the light bulb, you will receive 200 foot candles of light.
But here's where it gets tricky. The further away you move the light from what you want to illuminate, the less bright the light appears! If you measure it at the light, it's just as bright. But when you measure at the object you want illuminated, there is less light!
LUMENS is a unit of measurement of light. It measures light much the same way.
RADIANCE is another way of saying how much light radiating from the light itself. The heat is usually measured.
ILLUMINANCE is what results from the source of light. ILLUMINANCE, is when you shine a light in a dark space therefore lighting the space up. ILLUMINANCE is a measurement of the total light being seen in the dark space.
LUX, is the metric version of ILLUMINANCE.
Candlepower is a rating of light output at a bulb source, converting with English measurements. Foot-candles, is a measurement of light on an illuminated object. Lumens is he metric equivalent of a Candle foot. Divide the number of lumens you have, by 12.57 and you get the candlepower equivalent. LUX is the metric version of ILLUMINANCE.
Different Systems Pro's & Con's, Common Problems - Common Q & A
Pump filter bags work great to prevent clogging. They're a bag that fits right on the pump. They do need to be changed out and/or washed every now and then. Make sure when you change your reservoir (once a week) to clean all of the sediment out.
Using non-toxic chemicals the most important way to start. I recommend using a 1/10 Alcohol and 1/10 Bleach mixture mixed with a few drops of regular soap in a spray bottle. Spray and scrub using a bristle scrubbing brush. Warm to hot water works best when spraying (warmer water dissolves solids more easily). Use gloves to shield you from any toxic mold, fungi, bacteria, or residual chemicals left over from your grow cycle. You should wash your pots and trays every grow cycle.